Knowledge to Build On

Reclaimed materials, like old barn wood or salvaged bricks, add unique character but require special handling. Always inspect for pests, nails, and structural integrity before use. De-nailing is crucial for safety. When cutting, use a blade you don't mind dulling. Remember that dimensions can be inconsistent, so measure each piece individually rather than batch-cutting. Finally, choose a finish that celebrates the material's history, rather than hiding it.

Identifying and properly handling load-bearing walls is critical for any structural renovation. These walls support the weight of the roof and upper floors. Signs of a load-bearing wall include perpendicular joists resting on top of it or solid support structures directly beneath it in a basement or crawlspace. Never remove or alter a load-bearing wall without consulting a structural engineer to design appropriate temporary supports and a permanent header or beam to carry the load.

A proper vapor barrier is essential for preventing moisture damage within your walls, especially in climates with extreme temperature differences. The barrier, typically a plastic sheeting, should be installed on the warm side of the insulation (the interior side in cold climates). Ensure all seams are overlapped and sealed with construction tape. Pay close attention to sealing around outlets, windows, and other openings to create a continuous, unbroken envelope that protects the wall cavity from condensation.

Not all mortar is the same. The type of mortar you choose should be based on the strength of the brick or stone you're using. A common mistake is using a modern, high-strength Portland cement mortar on older, softer bricks. The mortar should always be softer than the masonry unit itself. If the mortar is too hard, it can cause the faces of the bricks to spall or break over time as the building settles. For historic restoration, a lime-based mortar is often required.